La Cumbre (Cerro San Felipe) and Rte. 175
La Cumbre (Cerro San Felipe) and Rte. 175
Route 175, which goes north across the mountains and eventually through Tuxtapec to the Caribbean, is a good birding area when en route to La Cumbre. When the road begins to wind upward, and is bounded on the right (when you are traveling north) by trees that grow beside the bordering stream, and good pull-out between km posts 207 and 202 can be productive of birds like Oaxaca Sparrow. Pileated Flycatcher and Dwarf Vireo may be here, and when singing during spring, relatively easy to find. About halfway between km posts 207 and 206 just short of where the road bends sharply right and crosses the river is an area well-known spot for Dwarf and Slaty Vireo (the latter, here as elsewhere, is a real skulker, and is usually first found when singing). The slopes above may produce Bridled Sparrow. Birding the stream side trees (at this spot or further along) can produce such good birds as Golden Vireo.
The real prize, though, is La Cumbre (Cerro San Felipe). It is perhaps most famous as a good place to see Dwarf Jay. The Jays are usually found as (rather retiring) members of mixed flocks led by the very vocal Gray-barred Wrens. The Jays tend to hang in the background and are often first seen flying between trees at mid-level.
The La Cumbre area can be birded on both sides of the road. On the northwest (left) side the road is gated to discourage illegal lumbering, and at times the overseer at this place will not open the gate until the arrival of the official agent. A small entry fee will be charged. If the gate is not open or openable when you arrive, simply bird on the other side of the road. The stands of forest are not so large and are separated by open land, but the birding can be good. Recently, in January, waiting for the northwest gate to open, birding on the other side produced such good birds as numerous Bumblebee Hummingbirds (plus White-eared, Garnet-throated, and Amethyst-throated Hummingbirds), Gray-collared Becard (a widespread but uncommon endemic), Long-tailed Wood-Partridge, White-naped Brush-Finch, and others.
When the gate to the northwest side is open, driving along the road and stopping periodically to listen can bring a good group of birds. This is a good area for Gray-barred Wrens and their associated Dwarf Jays (and other birds).
In short, this is one of the top Oaxaca birding sites. Remember though that time of day makes an immense difference. Arrive too late and it may seem that the forest is almost birdless.
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For detailed directions, including a map, as well a long bird list see Howell, A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico
La Soledad
The La Soledad area spans the transition from pine-oak forest to tropical semi-deciduous forest. As a result birding through it on Rte 175, either up from the coast at Puerto Angel, about one and a half hours away, or down from Oaxaca, three to four hours distant, provides a good mixture of birds, though the range and numbers of hummingbirds varies with the existing flower crop. At its best you might hope to see Blue-capped Hummingbird, Mexican Hermit, Golden-crowned Emerald, Sparkling-tailed Woodstar, and White-eared, Berylline, Bumblebee, Cinnamon-sided, and Ruby-throated Hummingbirds. In addition to the fine list of possible hummingbirds, the area is also known for White-faced Quail-dove, a good collection of Woodcreepers and Woodpeckers, a long list of Tyrannidae, and, in winter, a stellar list of wintering wood warblers, plus many other species.
For detailed directions as well as bird lists see Howell, A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico.
Monte Alban
The ruins at Monte Alban are especially impressive when seen from the air, as you approach the Oaxaca City airport. Located only about 15 minutes from downtown Oaxaca, they are often visiting birders first introduction to Oaxacan birds. Although the official opening time of the site is 9 AM, after which a procession of tour buses will arrive filled with visitors, birders often arrive before dawn, parking along the side of the road if the entrance to the parking area is closed. It is usually possible to walk at least into the parking area and explore the area surrounding it. At times it may be possible to walk into the site itself, and pay the fee at some later time. You should be aware that it you follow the old road, it may not be easy to find your way from the city to the park entrance in the pre-dawn darkness. Ask you hotel to give you clear directions.
Birds to be looked for in the surrounding areas and in the site itself include Boucard’s Wren (sometimes easily seen in the ruins area), Ocellated Thrasher (which occasionally will sing from exposed perches below the hill), Dwarf Vireo, Slaty Vireo (a notorious skulker), Beautiful Hummingbird is fairly common in winter, and Dusky Hummingbird and White-throated Towhee are common. Oaxaca Sparrow is sometimes seen.
For detailed directions, including a map, as well as bird lists see Howell, A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico
Teotetlan del Valle
This area of arid temperate scrub is about 45 minutes from Oaxaca City. The main area to be birded is beyond the town itself. The best site is probably near the small reservoir. The water there can supply some grebes, herons and egrets, and by walking along the road (in the direction of the mountains) you can with luck see a substantial set of birds. When the coral bean trees that line the road on the reservoir side are in bloom (mid-winter) they are good for hummingbirds and orioles.
For detailed directions, including a map, as well as bird lists see Howell, A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico
Tuxtapec
This large town on the Atlantic coastal plain, not many miles from the border with Veracruz, is for good reason known as a useful birding destination. It is also the best location from which to bird Valle Nacional. The best known birding location near the city is the stretch of road near the small village of Camilia Roja. This road runs between two sets of hills. Between the road and the hills are patches of fields and thickets. The road itself is lined, especially on the left hand side with borders of thickets. The easiest way to bird the area is to park your vehicle beyond the straggling houses of the village and walk the road. You may well hear, but probably not see, tinamous calling from the forested areas on the neighboring hillsides (or even from the thickets beside the road). You may also hear the endemic, rare and localized Sumichrast’s Wren calling from the limestone cliffs on the right hand side of the road. This wren, which is particularly fond of karst limestone areas, is a real skulker, so your chances of seeing one by climbing on the hillsides are virtually nil, but birds by the roadside itself are still well worth the walk. Various hummingbirds can be seen here, as can a number of wrens, and various seed-eating specialists.
Another neighboring birding spot can be reached by driving through Camilia Roja about 7 km to the large reservoir of Pressa Miguel Aleman. You can check the water briefly. Not much is usually there. But the scrub near the road just before you reach the reservoir can be good for tanagers and warblers, as well as Thick-billed Seedeaters.
For detailed directions, including a map, as well as bird lists see Howell, A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico
Valle Nacional
The small town of Valle Nacional sits on the Atlantic lowland slope at the foot of the mountains on Rte. 175 from Oaxaca to Tuxtapec. Some of the best birding in Oaxaca is found in the forests that line the road above (south of) the town, particularly the stretch from km post 80 to km 71. There are several places where you can pull your vehicle safely off the road. Bird from the road itself. From the long list of birds seen in this area few might be mentioned: White Hawk, White-faced Quail-Dove, Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, Black-crested Coquette, White-bellied Emerald, Emerald-chinned and Azure-throated Hummingbirds, Keel-billed Toucan, Rufous Phia, Slate-colored and Brown-backed Solitaires, Blue-black Grosbeak, Unicolored Jay, Black Thrush, and more. The total of species exceeds 170 (though this list includes a number of winter visitors).
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For detailed directions, including a map, as well as bird lists see Howell, A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico
Yagul
The ruins at Yagul are in some ways more intimate that those at the grander Monte Alban. They look older, and are usually almost empty of visitors. The area holds number of northern visitors during the winter months. White-throated Towhees are numerous along the road in. The desert scrub that surrounds the area is a good place to see Gray-breasted Woodpecker. In the ruins area look for Boucard’s Wren and Bridled Sparrow. Other birds include White-tailed Hawk, Gray Silky-Flycatcher, Crested Caracara, Berylline, Dusky (Southwest Mexico endemic), Ruby-throated, Beautiful Hummingbird(Southwest Mexico endemic), Lesser Goldfinch, Canyon Wren, Vermillion Flycatchers, Pileated Flycatchers, Rufous-capped Warbler, Common Ground-Dove, Inca Dove, Oaxaca and Bridled Sparrows (plus a number of other sparrows in winter).
For detailed directions, including a map, as well as bird lists see Howell, A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico. Be aware that since the Howell book was written, with the improvement of highway 190, the Yagul turnoff has changed.